Pictured, left to right, are Matt Swihart, Kyle Larsen, Garrett Meier, and Rudy Kellner who presented to Hood River Rotary in September on the local beer scene. Chelsea Marr photo
Pictured, left to right, are Matt Swihart, Kyle Larsen, Garrett Meier, and Rudy Kellner who presented to Hood River Rotary in September on the local beer scene. Chelsea Marr photo
HOOD RIVER — In the Columbia River Gorge, beer flows as mightily as the waters that carve it. Craft breweries define a thriving tourist economy built on leisure, recreation and community, with nearby beer havens Portland, Seattle and Bend keeping the hops growing and the alcohol pouring. You might think the industry is thriving, even expanding, as brewmasters continue to innovate with flavor and fun.
But nationwide, beer consumption is in decline, down 5% since 2020. Craft beers, in particular, have been replaced, sidelined for spirits, seltzers and cocktails crowding increasingly diverse beverage aisles across the country.
So how does this region — this city — keep trudging along with beer at the helm? Representatives from three local breweries stopped by the Hood River Rotary weekly meeting on Sept. 18 for a lively look inside the area’s nationally recognized craft beer scene. What works? What doesn’t? Why does this town continue to prevail amidst a shaken market?
The panel was held at the Hood River Inn, moderated by the President and CEO of Double Mountain Brewing Matt Swihart.
New kids on the block, Kings & Daughters, recently opened a pub in Hood River, home to eclectic, flavor-driven brews, including their signature Soft IPA, Queens and Sons. Founder and brewer Kyle Larsen spoke at the meeting, referencing his adventures living in England as formative and creative inspiration for Kings & Daughters’ unique mission upon return to Hood River.
“We knew we’d always move back to this town,” Larsen said.
A stalwart of the Hood River brewing community, Full Sail Brewing Co. also made an appearance, represented by Vice President of Brewery Operations Garrett Meier. Full Sail exploded onto a budding craft beer scene in 1986 and has developed into a West Coast powerhouse. Full Sail’s current mission, driven by quality and hospitality, leans into its robust beer heritage to uphold a growing legacy.
Last but not least, pFriem Family Brewers joined the panel — the 40th largest brewery in the country, according to founder and CEO Rudy Kellner. pFriem recently opened a tasting room in the Southeast Portland suburb of Milwaukie, where its commitment to craftsmanship and old-world sensibilities rings true.
Together, the three deciphered various obstacles presently impacting the beer industry, addressing what their companies are doing to navigate them. Young people are still drinking — just not beer. The sheer saturation of beverage options, including non-alcoholic beer, has reduced consumption, particularly for craft products.
“About 10-15 years ago, it was craft beer, industrial beer and wine across the aisle,” Kellner said. “Now there’s a ton of different products out there to achieve happiness from alcohol.”
Around these parts, it’s a different story. “You can tell because you can’t walk more than five feet before hitting a brewery in Hood River,” Swihart said.
What makes Hood River a fantastic beer demographic: a culture built around fun, leisure and outdoor recreation in a stunning, laid-back riverside setting. It’s a city frequently equated with having a good time, populated by several breweries, wineries and distilleries.
“From sports to hanging out on the waterfront, it’s such a great environment to have fun in,” Larsen said. “That really helps provide a good foundation for beer.”
But Hood River’s beer-loving culture is only as strong as the breweries that embrace it — the companies that go the extra mile to uphold a lifestyle of relaxation and social gathering. Kings & Daughters prides itself on its narrow concentration, catering to a local population that enjoys flavor-driven products and celebrates each other’s differences. A testament to the company’s singularity, Larsen’s wife, Kacie, started putting gorgeous watercolor artwork on their canned products, featuring a white and pastel palette largely unseen in beer marketing.
“We are only successful because of those efforts to be different, to be ourselves and be authentic,” Larsen said. “If you do that, you will succeed.”
pFriem embraces a similar mindset, honing in on what makes them stand out — what they are good at. “We dedicate ourselves to a narrow focus,” Kellner said. “Maximizing that instead of chasing.”
At Full Sail, which is additionally renowned for its pub menu full of elevated food options, hospitality is at the forefront. For all three breweries, family-friendly food service is a monumental piece of the puzzle. When it comes to beer, “never sacrifice quality,” Meier said. At the restaurant, it’s all about “treating customers well.”
At Kings & Daughters, Full Sail, pFriem and Double Mountain the future lies in creating a scene and pursuing an environment where customers become regulars. “I think COVID really threw a wrench in people’s ability to socialize and gather as a community,” Larsen said. “We’re starting to see that change, and I’m super optimistic that our breweries are spaces for entertainment.”
At the end of the day, that’s what beer is all about: breaking down social barriers, relaxing and celebrating the wonderful thing it is to be a human.
Even as the Hood River beer industry looks to expand and fly its flag outside of the area, the people, culture and values of the Gorge will continue to drive its mission.
Commented
Sorry, there are no recent results for popular commented articles.