Moorea Island Breezes

Papeete’, French Polynesia — my second time to this French territory, most commonly referred to as “Tahiti,” was even better than the first.

Tahiti, as it turns out, isn’t a whole nation. It’s only one of 118 islands and atolls that make up French Polynesia, which is about a 9.5 hour flight from Seattle.

My first experience to this French territory involved traveling to Bora Bora, which truly lived up to all of the tropical paradise hype in all the tourist brochures. It was decadent on every level, and a true bucket list thing to do.

But this time, I wanted to see the REAL French Polynesia, which was off the beaten path. So, I booked an Air B&B cottage on the island of Moorea, just 17 miles offshore from the main island of Tahiti.

The main road encircles the 37-mile-round island. Traffic speeds vary depending on whether there are children playing, dogs ambling, or chickens running across the road.  I quickly found out that having my foot on the brake even though I was going below the speed limit was a wise precaution.

After picking up some provisions at the local market and then fresh fruit from a roadside vendor, I arrived at my rental cottage. The room was small but comfortable, and had A/C, mini-kitchen, Wi-Fi, and cable. Kayaks were stored below that could easily be carried 100-feet down to the private beach. 

I took full advantage of this, paddling around the small bay as quickly as I could change into my swimsuit. 

But I had to be careful as there were many reef outcroppings just below the surface of the water, and I struggled to navigate the current and the narrow slips between each structure to prevent damaging the tiny animals. 

But I got to see sharks and rays, and many brilliantly-colored fish swimming everywhere in the crystal-clear sparkling waters.

However, I didn’t just visit this beach during the day. On the clearest night, I walked down to the water’s edge, and had to jump back immediately, as I almost stepped on the many nocturnal hermit crabs clamoring on the sand. 

The biggest treat on that beach? The stars. Oh, my, the stars. 

I’ve always loved star-gazing, but here, at literally the edge of the great Pacific Ocean with no other land mass or light pollution for tens of thousands of miles, the grandness of the entire Milky Way stood out clearly and brightly in all of its majesty against the inky darkness of the universe. Not one usually for random emotion, I actually broke down and wept at this beauty.

The next day, at the recommendation of a local I encountered at a roulette (small food truck or diner), I booked a daylong snorkel trip to go see sea turtles, rays, and sharks. Shortly after leaving the dock, we dove in, and explored a small channel, and the guide pointed out the sleeping turtles about 20-30 feet down, nestled in between the coral to avoid being swept away. Throughout the day, we saw probably at least 35 turtles, including ones that had come up to grab a breath before diving back into the depths.

Sharks and rays swirled around us when we ended up at our next stop which was in shallow water. Lemon and reef sharks curled around our ankles, and the rays swam right up, seemingly climbing up our swimsuits in their pursuit of the chopped fished offered by the guides. What an experience!

Another day, I decided to drive the entire circuit of the island, and it was so clear to see where tourist stuff ended and real Moorean life began. Many locals were fishing for dinner, since any processed foods, meats, or fresh vegetables purchased in the stores are all imported and therefore very expensive. 

It’s a quiet life, punctuated by frequent sunshine and rain. Everything is lush, and the jungle heads straight from the beach and runs right up the steep slopes of the eroded volcanoes that once reigned supreme here.

Another adventure included following a side road up one of those slopes up to Belvedere Lookout, which has a commanding view of both Cook’s and Opunohu Bays. Along the way, there are several marae easily accessible, which are ancient religious or cultural sites. A walking path starting from the Ti’i-rua marae leads to the Oporo council platform once used as a meeting room. 

When I wasn’t sampling the local fare, visiting beaches, or just enjoying a tropical moment at my rental cottage, I found ways to meet and chat with local people, who are incredibly welcoming and happy to share insights about their way of life in this remote island chain in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

I know one thing: I’ll be back.