Tehran residents relieved but divided by Trump truce

Just the day before, US President Donald Trump threatened to eradicate "a whole civilization" in Iran if its leaders did not heed his ultimatum to accept Washington's war demands. 

That was enough to cause a "nervous breakdown" for Simin, a 48-year-old English teacher, after more than a month of bombing.

"I couldn't feel my legs or arms anymore," she told AFP.

"We were terrified to our very core... The shock and psychological pressure were so intense that even now, we don't know whether to feel relieved by the truce or not."

That same evening, panicked residents of Tehran tried to flee north to the shores of the Caspian Sea, where many had sought refuge during the very first days of the war.

For those who stayed, the night was long and anxious.

Their eyes were glued to the latest developments on television until Trump announced the two-week truce, which came in the middle of the night for Iranians.

- 'We stood up' -

Since the truce was declared, the bombs have fallen silent in Tehran, and the Iranian capital now has the air of a public holiday.

Many shops were closed and outdoor cafes were packed in upscale neighbourhoods, as Tehran's legendary traffic jams vanished on Wednesday.

So did the checkpoints manned by armed men which had spread throughout the city in recent weeks, with only barriers and signs remaining on the roadside where they once stood.

The smell of burning hangs from a closed airport and buildings that have been destroyed or gutted.

On the facade of one building, giant portraits of the Islamic republic's founder, Ruhollah Khomeini, and his successor Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, killed on the first day of the war, overlook a field of ruins.

Despite thousands of people dead and widespread damage inflicted, Behrouz Ghahramani is "not afraid" of the American-Israeli enemy.

If the war resumes, "we will attack them again", he said.

"We were the ones who imposed this ceasefire on the United States by demonstrating our military power," the 67-year-old said, boasting of Iran's millennia-long history.

For those who hoped for a change of government, anxiety prevails.

What if the war ends and the Islamic republic remains "without any benefit for the people?" asked Armin, 35.

But for others like Mohammad Reza Hayatloo, who runs a currency exchange office, they are proud of their compatriots for forcing a ceasefire with Washington.

"We are heroes... We stood up to the world superpower," said the 53-year-old.

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