“The mountains, the food, the views, the trails, and culture all added up to a fantastic trip,” writes Dawn Rasmussen, who traveled to the northern part of Italy in July.
“The mountains, the food, the views, the trails, and culture all added up to a fantastic trip,” writes Dawn Rasmussen, who traveled to the northern part of Italy in July.
When a friend mentioned that she wanted to visit the northern part of Italy, it took about 3 seconds before I echoed, “Me too!”
Just twist my arm to go hiking, dining alfresco in the many refugios (small alpine restaurants) in between trails while sipping cappuccinos and snacking on local cuisine, and soaking in dramatic mountain scenery!
The spectacular Odle Range in the Dolomites.
Dawn Rasmussen photo
The trip came together quickly, and soon, I was on my way to Munich where I was going to meet my friend and we would catch the train that took us up from the broad meandering hills of southern Germany and up into the mountains of Austria / Italy.
Our first stop was in Val de Funes, and when we opened the window to our comfortable hotel, the magnificent Odle mountain range rose like a monolith. The Dolomites (correct way to say it: Dole-a-mee-tees) are renowned for their scenic beauty as well as their pale rock rising nearly 90 degrees up into the air, dominating the horizon.
Europe’s largest alpine meadow, Seiser Alm,
Dawn Rasmussen photo
Dining at one of the many family-owned alpine refugios (cafes).
Dawn Rasmussen photo
Interestingly, nearly every rock formation since the early days of the earth have been thrust up here, so pointing straight up into the sky is the history of the earth’s geology, right there in plain sight.
As a hiker, I was excited to explore these storied mountains, so the next day, we took the 15-minute bus ride up to the nearby national park. I had been concerned about the trails being mobbed as this was peak tourist season.
While the parking lot where we were dropped off was very busy, it didn’t take long to spread out onto one of the many trails and listen to quiet woods punctuated by birdsong and wildflowers everywhere underneath the pine trees, framed by nearby mountains.
This was the first of many hikes. All-in-all, I think I hiked about 35 miles over the two weeks I was there. When there weren’t specific numbered hiking trails, there were easy-to-navigate cart paths and of course, the cobblestone streets of the villages where we stayed, including the second week we spent in Ortisei in Val de Gardena.
Otzi, the ice mummy
Dawn Rasmussen photo
The most spectacular scenery we saw came on this leg of the trip. We took the famous Seceda gondola up which dropped us off at an alpine café at around 8,200 feet in elevation that had jaw-dropping views of the craggy Odle range.
After nearly 10 minutes of gasping adjectives at what we were seeing, my friend and I finally settled down and started hiking in the expansive meadows that seemed to go on forever.
This wasn’t the only gondola ride we took.
We took another one the next day to Seiser Alm, which provided a different perspective from one of Europe’s largest alpine meadows. The stereotypical scene of dairy cows with bells attached to their necks, tinkling merrily as they foraged, were constant, and we enjoyed cool breezes and warm sun in rippling green meadows under the watchful eye of the Odle mountains. Who wouldn’t be smiling ear-to-ear in such beauty? My face hurt at the end of the day.
One of the biggest highlights of this trip also included seeing Otzi, the Ice Mummy, who was discovered near Ortisei in 1991. Originally thought to be the remains of a deceased mountaineer, the story began to unfold after scientists analyzed the body to find out that this was actually a nearly 5,300-year-old stone-age man who had perished up in the Alps due to a mortal wound from an enemy.
The mummy and his clothing and supplies are on display in a museum in Bolzano, and it was pretty amazing to see, in-person, someone who lived so very long ago.
Rounding out our trip, between very cozy European-style hotels with lavish breakfast spreads and hearty coffee offerings, we enjoyed locally-produced meals that whet the appetite and made our mouths water. I’ll always remember the incredible ravioli served at a restaurant that had the most delicate garlic, nettle (yes, you read that right), and cheese filling that absolutely made the culinary aspect of the trip.
The mountains, the food, the views, the trails, and culture all added up to a fantastic trip. But one thing sticks in my mind about this adventure.
Kindness. Everywhere we went, people were kind. I used some broken phrases of German and Italian (and occasionally Google Translate), but actions, smiles, and simple respect rewarded kindness.
One situation in particular happened: we were at the farmer’s market in Brixen, and came across a tent where clearly some elderly ladies were cooking up food and selling it as some type of fundraiser. I was curious and came in for a closer look before waving off a smiling woman who wanted to take my order.
Then my friend and I stepped aside to a nearby bench to assess where we were going after the market, and the next thing I know, the woman from the tent was standing next to me a pushing half of the pastry that they were selling into my hands, smiling. The gift was clear, despite our language barrier, and I smiled and said “Grazie mille” to her.
A simple act of kindness can make all of us feel welcome, no matter where in the world we are. That’s the joy of travel.
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Dawn Rasmussen has been an Oregonian for 40 years and explores all corners of the state as well as international destinations, often writing about her trips.
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