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I went to Svalbard to see polar bears before they disappear. It was a profound experience, and the greatest adventure of my lifetime. For 12 days, I was in constant wonder and awe, barely able to breathe while enveloped in arctic splendor. I boarded a 12-passenger expedition ship that moved north through pack ice, then along many fjords around the island of Spitsbergen with top-tier conservation photographers guiding us.
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