For one week, a corner of London has been transformed into a pocket of ancient Japan, with dozens of sumo wrestlers descending on the city in a rare foray outside the sport's homeland. Â Â
The Royal Albert Hall, world-renowned as a concert venue, is housing an authentic soil-and-sand dohyo, or wrestling ring, and a striking roof reminiscent of a Shinto shrine.
Thousands of fans packed the venue in west London for the opening night of the five-day Grand Sumo Tournament on Wednesday featuring 40 rikishi, including megastars Onosato and Hoshoryu.
It is the first time the Japan Sumo Association (JSA) has staged an event outside Japan since 2013, when the wrestlers competed in Jakarta -- and marks a return to London after a 34-year absence.
"I want to show people the good things about sumo," said Ukrainian wrestler Aonishiki, who won his opening bout.
"You only usually see sumo in Japan, so there aren't any people walking around Europe with topknots and kimonos. I hope it will be a good chance to interact with people."
- Reinforced toilets -
The cavernous Royal Albert Hall has had to make significant adjustments to cater for the wrestlers, bringing in new chairs capable of bearing 200 kilograms in weight and installing reinforced toilets.
Vast quantities of rice have been eaten each day by the competitors, with organisers revealing that their wholesaler had run out of noodles.
The rikishi themselves have made quite a splash, posing for pictures in front of Buckingham Palace in their traditional dress and travelling around the city by bicycle.
They even recreated the iconic image of the Beatles on Abbey Road.
But on Wednesday it was time to get serious at an event that combines explosive action with ceremonial splendour, reflecting the ancient roots of sumo.
Thousands of fans packed into the 5,000-capacity Royal Albert Hall were given a crash course in the sport and there was radio commentary in English, explaining how to tell a yorikiri move from a tsukidashi.
It is not for the faint-hearted -- fans on floor cushions were warned by organisers they could be squashed by wrestlers thrown from the ring -- though there were no mishaps on an electric opening night.
Plenty of spectators clearly knew what they were watching, even without a helping hand, cheering for their favourite rikishi.
The stars in London are undoubtedly Hoshoryu and Onosato, two men who have achieved the highest rank of yokozuna -- a rare accolade in the sport.
Hoshoryu, a Mongolian wrestler, overpowered Japan's Hakuoho in the penultimate bout of the night before Japan's Onosato, who tips the scales at a mind-boggling 191 kilograms, got the better of compatriot Ura.
Sumo chiefs have made an effort to reach out to foreign fans in recent years, in 2022 launching the Sumo Prime Time YouTube channel, which has 92,000 subscribers.
The sumo-themed drama series "Sanctuary" was released on Netflix in 2023.
But they will hope connecting directly with fans overseas -- with another tournament planned for Paris next year -- can be a game-changer.
Reigning British champion Mandeep Singh Kundi was star-struck as he met the rikishi outside the Royal Albert Hall, saying the impact of their trip was "beyond words".
"I'm a sumo fan first and foremost as is my family, but then I'm also a British sumo wrestler, at 44 years young," he told AFP.
"I think for too long sumo has been a secret. It carries an allure and we are trying to make it more accessible to people across the UK."
Sumo superfan Andras Czetenyi, studying for a doctorate in Budapest, is in London for all five days of the tournament.
Czetenyi, 27, fell in love with the sport while studying in Japan.
"The teacher that was teaching Japanese to the foreign researchers, she recommended it because she was a big sumo fan," he said.
"I got to see one tournament in Japan and am in London for a week to watch this tournament. I'm very excited."
London-based Japanese waitress Hiromi Izutani, 32, could not believe her luck.
"I have a friend who is a sumo I've come to support," she said. "It's a miracle that the show is happening while I'm living in London."
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