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Donnetta Raleigh, owner and manager of Brown’s Lunch Counter, had ordered 10 cases of oyster crackers for the week, believing that would be enough, which it turned out barely to be.

This was in preparation for our premier, perennial culinary event in Warhaven, Brown’s annual Chowder Chow Down. As has been tradition for close to 100 years, the kitchen would prepare five different chowders; lunch and dinner customers would sample all, then vote for favorites in a system of casting ballots for win, place, and show chowders, much like horse race betting. A trophy, first awarded in 1936, indicates the year’s winner on its brass plaque. An adjacent poster documents results of all contests over the years. The trophy stands two feet tall, loving cup style, except it’s really a loving bowl of silver plate on a round pedestal of pewter atop a cherry wood base. Nowadays, Donnetta keeps a loaded derringer in the bowl, a Remington 95, pearl handled.